— Alistair O’Neill, “Imagining Fashion: Helmut Lang & Maison Martin Margiela” (via organization)
Dressing the Home: The Private Spaces of Top Fashion Designers, 2008
by Marie Bariller, photography by Guillaume de Laubier
Q: If you were an item of furniture, what would you be?
A: A concrete bench.
Patti Smith and Ann Demeulemeester
"Ann Demeulemeester was sixteen years old when she first encountered Smith. On a whim, she bought a copy of Smith’s record Horses. There was something about the cover sleeve a woman staring unflinchingly into the camera, her pale face framed with jet-black hair, her aquiline nose punctuated by the stern horizontal of her mouth that made the young Demeulemeester stop and stare. With a jacket slung over her shoulder, a tie around her neck and the slightest trace of facial fair above her upper lip, Patti Smith whoever she was had a compelling ambiguity about her. Upon listening to the androgynous American’s defiant three-chord songs Demeulemeester was even more inspired. So when it came to selecting a soundtrack for her Paris runway debut in 1991 more than a decade later, Smith’s ragged poetry was an obvious choice. Demeulemeester played the album Wave and as a gesture of thanks, sent Smith a package containing a note and a white shirt from the collection. The shirt struck a chord with Smith she felt it had been made for her and she wrote back straight away. The correspondence would last five years before the pair finally met backstage at a gig of Smith’s in Ostend."
Patti Smith holding a gun
Chelsea Hotel, 1970
So Wot Is Wat?
Magazine: Dazed and Confused October 1998
Kate Moss photographed by Liz Collins
that evening, i go through a list of margielas in the belgian phone directory hoping that someone can bring a reality to the designer. there are about a dozen of them and i pick a number at random. someone answers almost immediately. “yes hello i’m writing a piece on martin margiela… ” i say. “he’s my brother,” interrupts a gentle, male voice on the other end. “but i don’t speak about him.” it is an abrupt call, but it confirms that martin margiela is real. he’s not a ghost.
Christophe Lemaire: Paris fashion’s ace of clubs
Tomorrow morning in an old locksmith’s atelier in Paris’ once industrial 11th arrondissement, Christophe Lemaire will hold a show for his eponymous brand. It is his first in a long time. For the past two years, Lemaire has been the women’s designer for Hermès. Before that, he made the crocodile look chic in mens- and womenswear for Lacoste.
Lemaire’s love affair with fashion began when he served as an intern for Yves Saint Laurent back in 1985. Or maybe it started earlier, inspired by his mother and grandmother who wore YSL or by observing his chic uncle, a French Voguedirector. Lemaire is a “mélomane” (music lover) with a DJ reputation and a compilation to his credit, but he gradually gave up his nighttime music for his daytime fashion life. Over the past 22 years, Lemaire has quietly been building his own men’s and women’s brand. Today, Christophe Lemaire is sold at its own store on Paris’ rue Poitou in the Marais, downstairs from the design studio. It’s also carried by independent shops all over the world, including Paris’s Bon Marché; New York’s Atelier, Bird, and Assembly; and online at thecorner.com. Lemaire’s look is natural and chic, which might sound banal if you don’t know what a rare commodity that is today. He believes clothes should look smart and be practical. He prefers shiny hair to hats; loves warm browns, including taupe, in tonal combinations; high-waist trousers for women; sweaters with side slits so you can put your hands in your pockets; and sweeping trench coats.
We sat down with Christophe Lemaire in his studio last Saturday to talk about his style and to preview some of the winter pieces he will show tomorrow.